Martha Martha Martha

Is there anything easier than making fun of Martha Stewart?

Ever since the federal case against her became public, the jokes have been flying ("Will she use her glue gun to break out of jail?") along with the "martha stewart living (behind bars)" e-mail parodies, and the endless references to It's a good thing. (Note to headline writers: Get a new idea. It's been done.)

There have been some defenses of her mounted in the press. Most have come from the free-enterprise set, like the Wall Street Journal editorializing (as passionately as a suitor) along the lines of "how could such a great capitalist be a criminal?" Other signs of support have come from the feminist side, the allegation being that Stewart is being pilloried because she is a strong woman who doesn't apologize for her ambitions--and that male CEOs who have done the same thing have been spared her treatment.

But having spent the past week refurbishing a footstool (from the January 1996 issue), painting a dresser (June-July '94) and cultivating salvia plants (Sept '97) some of us are pro-Martha for a very different reason. And we're not alone. If you go to her elegantly designed online defense--marthatalks.com (in appropriately tasteful chartreuse and araucana-egg blue, of course), you can click on "notes to Martha," and there you'll find the voice of her common reader.

Like Dottie Ladner, who writes: Just wanted you to know that I admire you and the elevating of the American Home that you have done. So, Martha, keep your head high and know that this 80 year old grandmother thinks you're the best.

That's because for all her waspy-wannabe uptight persona, Martha Stewart (and her staff) have created a body of household knowledge not seen since Mrs. Beeton. Yes, the TV show is kind of lame, and she's, well, painful to watch as a host. But the magazine is rather extraordinary in its depth of research and out-and-out creative force. Even if you don't (or can't) follow the recipe to the letter, it's good to know what the classic way to, say, roast a chicken properly is. And to know that there is value in doing what is still devalued, women's work, well. That is, in itself, a radical viewpoint.

After all, would the legendary Art Cooper have had the guts to plug a feature entitled "Macaroni and Cheese 101" (February 1999) on the cover of his magazine?